What goes on during an expedition cruise? We went on board to find out

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Not every traveler is made for an expedition cruise. However, those who are looking for a connection with nature and aren’t afraid of a little discomfort could find themselves at the most extreme locations in the globe.
But what if you landed in the Arctic Circle on a whim? 
That was the case for Katie McCay who said that after feeling overwhelmed at work, any trip sounded like a good idea. Thankfully, long-time friend Victoria Dixon was there with the idea to cross eight time zones from Melbourne, Australia, to embark on Aurora Expeditions’ Sylvia Earle for an Arctic exploration. 
“The idea presented itself, so why not,” MacKay told USA TODAY. 
Nature can make you feel small.You should seek that feeling when traveling.
Expedition cruising is one of the fastest-growing segments in the cruise industry. It’s one of the few vacations where passengers can experience pristine wilderness face-to-face. According to an Aurora Expeditions spokesperson, the line estimates that by December 2025, “we will have tripled our capacity since 2019 with our three purpose-built ships.”
“We know that consumers are increasingly conscious about spending money with companies they know are operating ethically and sustainably, and this is also true for those they choose to travel with,” a spokesperson for the line told USA TODAY.
For many of the 58 passengers, boarding the Sylvia Earle was purposeful and intentional. 
“I saw a YouTuber do this exact trip, and I knew I had to do it,” Patricia Spiekermann, a photography enthusiast from Frankfurt, Germany, said. 
Aurora Expeditions product teams work two to three years in advance to design their programs, “with considerations including the popularity of destinations/voyages, market trends, scheduling logistics, port availability and more,” the spokesperson said.
Onboard Expedition Manager (and locker room DJ) Samantha Deer added that product teams will also rely on local guides for suggestions and insights into a new area.
While many of the passengers were content with the breathtaking views – which some described as “otherwordly” – quite a few had to adjust their expectations. 
Throughout our Arctic expedition, the group was able to watch Arctic foxes, reindeer, seals, walruses, puffins, and even a pair of humpback whales, but not the emblematic polar bear. A testament that nothing is guaranteed in the outdoors. 
The crew, however, was incredibly diligent in scoping out locations and ensuring passengers had every opportunity to spot as much wildlife as they could. 
“I think that what we’re trying to do is we’re trying to instill a sense of privilege,” Expedition Leader Howard Whelan told USA TODAY. “You know, what a privilege it is to see these places and, for the most part, (passengers) look after it.”
“Goood morning, passengers!” All passengers were treated to Whelan’s cheery wake-up calls every day of the voyage with a quick rundown of what to expect that day. 
Travelers need to be ready to adjust and follow a schedule that’s subject to continuous changes. 
“I’m looking at the ice charts right now, and our second excursion in Svalbard is at a place called Samarinbreen, which is (an expedition on a) Zodiac cruise in front of a glacier, but right now, it looks like there’s still fast ice at that end of the fjord,” Whelan explained. “We may either try and make a landing on fast ice, or we may not get in close, in which case I have to come up with an alternative, check around the area and see what’s another really fantastic place to go to and I’ll make that call. Ultimately, we may be going into a place in the wind direction, which may not be suitable for us to make the landing. So then we’ll change that and find a place with a different exposure.”
Of course, if someone wasn’t feeling up for it, they could notify the crew that they would be staying on board. But even for those who ended up on the Sylvia Earle by happenstance, nature forced everyone to bear witness to its splendor.
“We know (passengers) have wonderful trips, but the one thing that most of us love to do is, when we’re in the Zodiacs, we love to just turn the engine off and just stop and get everybody in the Zodiac to be quiet for a few minutes. Don’t say a thing and just sit there,” Whelan said. “And quite often, at the end of the trip, when we asked people what was the most the most powerful experience that you had, often (people will) say when we sat silently, and we listened to the ice cracking in the glaciers … that was the best thing.”
It is worth noting that the Sylvia Earle is a purpose-built ship. It was made for these expeditions, and as such, amenities on board are fewer than those of an ocean cruise ship. 
In lieu of musical shows, passengers can attend daily lectures on different aspects of what they’re experiencing. Instead of food halls with long operating hours, there is the main dining room where meals are scheduled and a premium restaurant option for an additional cost. And instead of a casino, there’s a daily coin toss to spot wildlife.
“Sometimes (the lectures are a) little too much since we’re on vacation,” said Peter Cvek, from Newark, New Jersey, who was on board with his wife Mary. “But I find a lot of it very interesting and very good to know that the people (here) have a lot of knowledge.” 
The purpose is to be outside, as all of the expedition guides made clear with their infectious enthusiasm for the outdoors. 
“This is an opportunity to do something that I would have never thought to do. And it’s sitting there right in front of you. So why not take the chance?” Cvek added.
No two days are alike – unless you have four consecutive sea days like we did – but on our trip, they all started with a daily rundown before breakfast, getting some time to get our waterproof clothing and hiking gear ready, and then it was off to that day’s adventure. Some days, you could expect to be out until the late afternoon, but in our case, we usually did a morning trek, ate lunch at the ship, and did an early afternoon activity like hiking, kayaking, or Zodiac cruising. Then, it was back on board for a recap of the day, dinner and bedtime.
Expeditions to the Arctic or Antarctica do attract travelers looking to cross a destination off their bucket list, or as Whelan said, those “who make a place a goal rather than a place to experience.”
“I think, for me, the most important thing is that people connect in a deeply personal way with these remote, wild places because I think that it feeds the soul,” Whelan said. “We do offer all of these activities and some people get caught up with thinking, ‘Oh well, that’s so exciting if we go kayaking or if we go skiing or whatever.’ And it’s true, it is. But what’s really wonderful about that is it puts you in contact with a different way of experiencing the place that we go to and I think that’s the beauty of Aurora.”
The trips themselves are a financial commitment, with most Arctic expeditions starting at over $8,000 per person. Aurora Expeditions does not charge a single supplement on select voyages.
“Though our predominant demographic is still in the over 50s-60s, we are seeing that some voyages are skewing younger, depending on the destination and the activities and experiences offered,” the spokesperson said. “There is certainly a subset of older millennial travelers who are adventurous and able to afford more premium experiences like an expedition to Antarctica or the Arctic, and they are attracted to our more informal and relaxed approach to expedition cruising.”
Aurora Expeditions does have ADA-accessible cabins, but it’s important for passengers to carefully review the itinerary and assess accommodations as soon as possible. Also, keep in mind that many of the ports will require Zodiac transportation to shore.
Both MacKay and Spiekermann, who embarked on the Sylvia Earle by opposite paths, said they enjoyed their holiday. The same goes for every passenger USA TODAY spoke to onboard – even those who got seasick.
Travel isn’t always perfect. It’s as messy as real life, and that’s part of it. Those are the moments that provide a foil. Those are the moments that change you as a person. And those are the moments Aurora Expeditions is aiming to provide for its passengers.
The reporter on this story received access to this event from Aurora Expeditions. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of content.